Decanter stops by

Adam Lechmere from Decanter Magazine came to visit the Spring Mountain District; his report is in the February 2016 issue. An excerpt:

 

SPRING MOUNTAIN DISTRICT is one of the five great mountain appellations of the Napa Valley. It covers a lot of ground – its lower reaches abut the quiet residential streets of St Helena town, before the road climbs in vertiginous switchbacks up to 800m into the Mayacamas Range and the borders of Sonoma. Wine has been made here since the mid-19th century – the Beringers, already established in St Helena, planted a vineyard in 1880. In its heyday, before phylloxera and Prohibition, there were some 250 wineries working on Spring Mountain. Today there are only 30, and you’re unlikely to find a more diverse crew of winemakers and grape farmers in Napa or indeed any American appellation.

There are rangy individualists like the Smith brothers of Smith-Madrone, whose ranch is a piece of Napa history, unchanged since they arrived in the 1970s. Their interesting range includes a Riesling that is renowned and delicious, though not as original as their Cabernets. On a quiet evening you can hear their shotguns booming from miles away – the estate is dotted with buckshot-peppered targets.

Stuart and Charles Smith work a remote 81 hectare ranch, first planted in the 1880s, crafting Bordeaux blends, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Riesling on rocky slopes. The Smiths have changed little since they planted in the 1970s, their Cabs especially showing a fine classic structure.

Six producers to watch

Smith-Madrone

Stuart and Charles Smith work a remote 81ha ranch, first planted in the 1880s, crafting Bordeaux blends, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Riesling on rocky slopes. The Smiths have changed little since they planted in the 1970s, their Cabs especially showing a fine classic structure.

Lechmere’s picks: 10 top Spring Mountain District wines

Smith-Madrone, Riesling 2013

92 points: Orange blossom nose with hints of gasoline then white flowers on the palate and developing peach and pear fruit. Bone-dry minerality will soften. Curiously charming. Drink 2016-2025

Smith-Madrone, Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

94 points: Vibrant blue fruit on the nose then a fresh and savoury palate with ripe, perfumed damson, finely structured tannins and refreshing acidity. Drink 2018-2028.

Author: corkingnapa

Julie Ann Kodmur is a second-generation Californian who was born in San Francisco and grew up in La Jolla. As an eighth grader she was the runner-up in the state spelling bee. She’s lived in Italy and New York and now lives in the Napa Valley with her family. She is a marketing and publicity consultant in the wine industry. Her business life can be seen at http://www.julieannkodmur.com. This is the home for the overflow. The ‘title’ is a reference to a sculpture honoring an Argentinean journalist who practiced his craft in the 1930s before literally dying for his words. No such drama here, just hopefully some provocative fun.

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