Our thanks to Susan Spinello for her recent visit: “…There is something unique about the lay of the land and the spacing of the vines, something that is sought after, but can only be achieved by authentic farmers and longevity in the business. Smith-Madrone captures that and more, as evidenced by their superior wines…”
Her article is here: http://www.liveleft.com/napa-and-sonoma/ and our section:
Our next adventure was about 35 minutes further northwest. Just past the town of St. Helena, and a few more bouts of whiplash later, we travelled up the steep, rugged 5 mile incline of Spring Mountain Road to the Vineyards of Smith-Madrone. Pulling onto the long dirt driveway up to the barn 1800 feet high. It was time for a wardrobe change. Adorned in boots, jeans and a tee shirt, we were about to meet the legendary Smith brothers. Founded in 1971 by Stuart Smith, and joined two years later by winemaker and brother, Charlie, Smith-Madrone has been producing award winning and authentic wines since 1977. This year marks their 45th anniversary of superior excellence in winemaking.
Upon entering the barn, Charlie was finishing up a tasting for a small group of five. We wandered around the property under the watchful eyes of Curly, the Springer Spaniel who was just doing a less than stellar job of guarding the premises. The vantage view from this over 200 acre property situated in the Mayacamas Mountains above the fog is breathtaking. Surrounded by Madrone and Fir trees and framed with 120 year old Picholine Olive trees, feels like a throwback in time. Charlie and Stu are a bit of a throwback in time as well, sporting beards and UC Berkeley educations in the late 60’s. They are direct descendants of German farmers, the Fetherolf family, who came to America in 1730, and are continuing the tradition with Assistant Winemaker Sam Smith, Stu’s son. Each portion of the vineyard is carefully selected to optimize the best of each grape varietal. Currently there is close to 40 acres under vine. Riesling is planted on 35 degree slopes facing east, chardonnay faces the cool north, cabernet sauvignon faces the south and west to optimize sun exposure and merlot and cabernet franc are dispersed accordingly to maximize the cool, mountain climate.
There is something unique about the lay of the land and the spacing of the vines, something that is sought after, but can only be achieved by authentic farmers and longevity in the business. Smith-Madrone captures that and more, as evidenced by their superior wines and highly sought after Cook’s Flat Reserve. Charlie revved up his 4 wheeler high-speed golf cart and took us around the property with Curly close behind…for a while. There is a unique 8 acre block of vines known as Cook’s Flat (named after George Cook, the first owner of the property) where a small production of the best of the best mountain fruit is grown. Cook’s Flat was replanted in 1972 and the result is a very special Cabernet Reserve that will only be crafted in small batches and only in the best years. Each Cook’s Flat Reserve bottle is wrapped in tissue which has been printed with a copy of the U.S. Land Office Patent granted to George Cook and signed by President Chester Arthur in 1885. The original is on display at the winery.
All of Smith-Madrone wines are estate grown and estate bottled. So what is the secret? Is it the Red Aiken soil? The vineyard orientation? Canopy management? Altitude? Or is the secret in the winemaking itself? Age and experience really is a virtue. So back to the tasting barn/winery where the second half of the journey picks up.
2014 Chardonnay is 100% barrel fermented and aged in 100% new French oak for 9 months and yet it is so refined and delicious that it’s as if some magic has occurred, but don’t tell Stu about pixie dust…this is all raw talent. Spice and apples with tropical papaya, lush mango, pear and almonds with a big mouthfeel and long lingering finish. It’s big and buttery with just the right amount of oak.
2012 Cabernet Sauvignon is a hidden gem and the perfect wine for your barbecue. Open up and decant while you wait for your medium rare ribeye or peppercorn crusted lamb to grill. Rich red and black fruit with notes of savory clove and smoky cigar box. Mocha, black pepper and green olives show on this terroir-driven, meaty Cabernet Sauvignon, yet like all the Smith-Madrone wines tasted, it is well balanced with a lingering finish.
2010 Cook’s Flat Reserve is a highly allocated 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc reserve wine that displays generous dark fruit, cassis and tobacco leaf. It has solid tannins and is exceptionally poised to lay down for another 10 plus years. But this wine is drinking fabulously right now. Upon commenting on the rich style and finesse in which this wine was crafted, Charlie replied, “Oh Hell, let’s break open a bottle of the 2009”, and thus a new love entered my life.
2009 Cook’s Flat Reserve also highly allocated and held back, released after the 2010, is pure gold. 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 14% Merlot, it sees 18 months in new French white oak, and is layer upon layer of dark fruit, black cherry, blackberry, cocoa, espresso and baking spice. It’s more fruit-forward, but exceptionally integrated, and can lay down another 20 years, but I’m not going to chance it.
2014 Riesling is “a dry Riesling that has been grown and produced from the same vineyard, pruned by the same people in the same style and left to Mother Nature to impart annually distinct flavors, scents and character”. The Smith brothers have been growing and producing Riesling since 1983 (about 17 years before the rest of California attempted to jump on the bandwagon). It has been hailed as one of the 50 best wines in the world according to Stuart Pigott, author of “The Best White Wine on Earth: The Riesling Story”. Orange blossom, jasmine and honeysuckle with lemon zest and crisp minerality, followed by white peach and pear with a creamy, lingering finish. Perhaps this is the best Riesling on Earth and why Charlie saved the best for last.
Smith-Madrone graciously hosts tastings by appointment only on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday at 11am and 2pm. Located at 4022 Spring Mountain Road, it’s a little off the beaten path, but well worth a visit and an experience that will linger long after the wine is gone. There is a chalkboard sign in the winery bearing the poetry of Eduardo Galeano: “We are all mortal until the first kiss and the second glass of wine”. Yes, please!
Smith-Madrone News 