Chardonnay and Cabernet considered at Winethropology:
WEDNESDAY, MARCH 7, 2018
Smith-Madrone, King and Queen
If cabernet is king in Napa, certainly chardonnay is the queen. A sample bottle of each from Spring Mountain stalwart Smith-Madrone arrived recently for review. I’ve very much enjoyed past vintages and other bottlings from this family-run operation. Though many wineries in Napa Valley remain small and family-owned, few can claim what Smith-Madrone does: 100% dry farmed estate wines. This is no small feat and absolutely impacts what comes into the cellar. For those who can pull it off – and pull it off well – the resulting wines ooze authenticity.
A year ago I had the pleasure of reviewing the 13 and 14 cab and chard respectively. These two below are from the 14 and 15 vintages. The 2014 and 15 chardonnays are very similar stylistically, while the the 2013 and 14 cabernets exhibit clear vintage contrasts. Regardless, these remain wines faithful to a certain place, a place worth making a visit to next time you’re in the neighborhood.
2015 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay Spring Mountain Napa Valley $34
Majestic. High quality chardonnay in the classic California style. Intense tropical flavors with glycerine, heavy cream, and solid oak framing. Unapologetically statuesque, bold, and lingering, yet cleanly pressed and bearing all the hallmarks of quality winemaking; nary a stitch out of place. Can be (and best) enjoyed at cellar temperature to appreciate its full profundity.
2014 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain Napa Valley $52
Oh, lord, the luxurious aromatics coming off this alone are enough to incite instant infatuation. Deep, beckoning black fruit invites more sniffing for those with the patience to not just dive in. The attack, however, sits juxtaposed with its blue-green fruit/vegetable profile and a restraint that is in contrast to the nose. Prominent acidity, combined with its old school cabernet fruit elements suggest longevity. Even after seven hours decanted, drinking this feels like infanticide. Would love to revisit this one in a decade. And then again in another.