Blake Gray reports on Wine & Spirits Magazine’s Sommelier Scavenger Hunt on his blog on November 4:
A dirty secret of the U.S. wine industry is that among themselves, many sommeliers disparage Napa Valley wines. They don’t want to rip Napa publicly because that would insult the taste of many of their wealthiest customers. But I overhear all the time, “Napa Cabernets don’t show any terroir.” Wine & Spirits Magazine staged an interesting competition last month in San Francisco. The magazine asked five teams of sommeliers to investigate a type of wine in a region and then present 6 wines that would represent that region’s terroir. In other words, the winners would find not just the best wines, but wines that said something about the place. It didn’t bode well for Napa that its sommelier team was New York-based and its head, Bar Boulud sommelier Michael Madrigale, is an official ambassador for the Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB). But Napa kicked ass, took no prisoners, and left even those of us in the room who know how good its wines can be astonished at how well they can show terroir. Here are the 6 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons Madrigale and teammates chose:
Smith-Madrone, Spring Mountain District 2011
Robert Sinskey SLD Estate, Stags Leap District 2009
Robert Mondavi To Kalon Reserve, Oakville 2011
Corison Kronos Vineyard 2010
Mayacamas Vineyards, Mt. Veeder 2008
Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill, Diamond Mountain District, 2008
The Smith Madrone was one of the most impressive wines of the day, with garrigue-like notes of the native California flora on the rugged forests on Spring Mountain. The 2011 vintage in Napa will never score well with Parker et al, but I believe great Napa wines from 2011 will be the best wines in those wineries’ cellars two decades from now, and this is a terrific example. What won the day for Napa, though, wasn’t just that all six were excellent wines. It was their statement of terroir. They share a generosity of fruit you expect from Napa Valley, but they differed substantially based on where in Napa they came from. Nobody would have expected Napa Valley to crush Anderson Valley in a taste-of-terroir contest judged by sommeliers. But then, nobody expected the Giants. Again.
More: http://blog.wblakegray.com/2014/11/terroir-fight-napa-vs-anderson-valley.html