The title of Nancy Brazil’s PullThatCork column on June 7, 2024:
I have a thing for mountainside vineyards. Growing vines on the side of a mountain is definitely not the easiest place to grow them, but some of the most interesting and complex wines I’ve tasted are grown there. Smith-Madrone wines are both. They are also elegant, unexpected and affordable. Affordable and Napa Valley are sometimes mutually exclusive with regard to wine. Today we are tasting Smith-Madrone’s current release wines from the 2019 vintage. We received these wines as tasting samples.
Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery is situated above Napa Valley on the eastern side of the Mayacamas Mountains in the Spring Mountain District. Spring Mountain District sits above and to the west of St. Helena — the city and appellation. The St. Helena appellation is considered warm, sometimes warmer than Calistoga AVA according to the Napa Valley Vintners. Spring Mountain District, on the other hand, is described as the coolest and wettest of all Napa Valley AVAs.
Stuart Smith and his brother Charles are the proprietors of Smith-Madrone. Stuart founded Smith-Madrone and a year later Charles joined as winemaker. Together, they built the winery using rock and lumber from the property. That was more than 50 years ago. Today they are doing the same thing they have been doing for fifty-plus years —making wine they enjoy drinking. That includes the style of wine they like and the varieties they like. Lucky for us they have excellent taste and are skilled growers and winemakers.
Only about 34 acres of the 200-acre property are planted to vines — the rest is the winery building, open space and forest. The vineyards are planted at elevations between 1300 and 2000 feet above sea level. Plantings include Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on flatter terrain with southern and western exposures; Chardonnay on the coolest northern slopes. Riesling is planted on the steepest slopes with an eastern exposure.
Stuart farms the vineyard sustainably and in general without irrigation. The volcanic soils are too low in fertility for general agriculture, but perfect for grapevines. The vines send their roots deep into the soil to produce small grapes with a high skin-to-juice ratio. Smith-Madrone wines are 100% estate grown and bottled.
2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley—pale yellow with generous aromas of petrol, pineapple and stone fruit. Flavors include petrol, lemon, stone fruit and stony minerality. The body is relatively light with bracing acidity. The flavors are fresh and refreshing.13.3% abv. SRP $40
Riesling is the first wine Charlie and Stuart made on the mountain after establishing the winery in 1971. It was more in fashion then, but even when Riesling’s popularity ebbed their interest never did. They didn’t have to re-discover Riesling, as some winemakers have, they have always loved and appreciated Riesling. They know how to grow it and how to bottle the flavors the mountainside vineyard gives them. This is a Riesling for all seasons.
2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley — light golden with aromas of ripe pears and melons with hints of toast. Flavors include melons, pears, citrus and hints of sweet oak. The body is a bit round with fresh, juicy acidity and a very long finish.14.6% SRP $45
What a lovely, complex, vibrant Chardonnay. Yes, it is barrel-fermented and aged for nine months in 55% new French oak, but the oak is well integrated and doesn’t trample the complex flavors of the Chardonnay. In fact, that is one of the characteristics of Chardonnay grown on the mountainside according to Charlie— it stands up to oak aging. This is a gorgeous Chardonnay for a meal (or to sip while preparing a meal).
2019 Smith Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley—dark ruby with generous aromas of plums, cedar, blackberries and hints of roasted red peppers. Flavors include blackberries, red plums, dried tobacco and cedar. Tannins are fine, but drying. The body is medium with juicy acidity. 14.3% abv. SRP $65
This is a Cabernet with energy, fresh flavors and lively acidity. It’s complex without being heavy or too ripe. It is a pleasure to sip. The blend, 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, is aged for 18 months in 55% new French oak. Sip this Cabernet with a meal, regardless of the season. This is a Cab I would sip even in summer.
We were fortunate to visit Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery, tour the vineyard with Stuart and taste wines with Charles in 2016. The drive up the mountain is winding and so beautiful, as are the views of Napa Valley from the winery. See the website for details to visit. It will take time to drive up the mountainside, but really, isn’t quality better than quantity? Take your time, drink less, but drink better.
Smith-Madrone News 